Southern Exposure Tours: "Secrets of Morocco" September 2017
Preface: The reviewer has trotted the surface of the globe and explored some of its most remote corners for nearly 40 years
What the 'Southern Exposure Tours' website says travellers can expect:
*Trip focus: Moroccan culture and authentic experiences
"We focus on the unique culture and lifestyle"
*Meeting the locals as you hike in the Atlas mountains and stay in a Berber villages
What we actually received was a very touristy 3-star 'package' holiday for the price of a 5-star authentic experience. Were we immersed in Moroccan culture? Did we spend any time with local people beyond handing over cash in exchange for cola and trinkets? Let's examine the details:
We were promised "Meeting the locals as you hike in the Atlas mountains and stay in a Berber villages"..."the night with a Berber family is basic but culturally rich".
Upon arrival we were not even introduced to our Berber hosts. Received wisdom tells us the Berbers are very friendly people who like to interact with strangers. This is probably not far from the truth but on THIS trip our hosts were hidden away from us throughout, and only meekly appeared from the shadows at supper time in the time it took to put some food down and scuttle away as if under strict instruction to leave the paying guests well alone.
OK so this describes only one night, but was a definitve theme throughout the tour. The website says that "Both those experiences are often the highlight of the trip", referring to the mountain and Sahara excursions. Without analysing the entire trip day-by-day, "Secrets of Morocco" can be summed up as a protracted circuit of Morocco spent largely in a minibus but punctuated by unsought trudges to carpet, textile and leathercraft shops etc and 'free days' that totally abrogated the guide and tour company from any obligation or responsibility to their customers at all.
The interminable bus tours might have been put to good use delivering useful info about our forthcoming schedule, or offering alluring cultural and historical facts about our next destination.
However our guide seemed to know less than a kindergarten teacher might have picked up in 20 minutes from the travel supplement of a Sunday newspaper, eg: "The camels in Morocco only have one hump and are called dromedaries". Did I look four years old?
Our guide, Linda, had only the vaguest notions of schedules, departure and arrival times, and even the names (and addresses) of the hotels we were to stay in. When pressed, her stock response was to tell us "This is Morocco, it could happen at any time". On the day our bus got lost and experienced an additional 3-4 hours before eventually returning to out planned route, it was revealed that she had not even brought a map with her.
The ability to lead a party and keep to a schedule was totally lacking. Yet our guide had no hesitation in taking all the time she liked to stop and pat camels, hug mules, stroke cats and feed Barbary apes. Fine...but do this in your own time, not ours.
We were promised drinking water would be provided on our bus. Yes, for about 3 days before drying up. In 37 degrees this is a necessity rather than a 'courtesy'. Printed handouts are a basic provision for tours like this. Not with S.E.T. it seems.
On the day two of our party announced that they preferred to walk the dunes rather than jockey them by camel, Linda offered a withering and dismissive sneer of scepticism at the claim that camel-riding might NOT be best for someone with arthritis of the hips.
Accommodation: Basic in rural areas, for which we were forewarned. In towns however, corners definitely were being cut by SET. Many breakfasts were dreadful. Some of the hotel rooms were so small you could just about squeeze two people into a twin room but fitting in their luggage as well required ingenious feats of contortion. Two showers were so small that once in the cubicle, no turns could be made without loss of elbows, or collision with mixer-taps resulting in scalding.
This holiday was priced at double what it was worth. Accordingly I would like to award S.E.T 5/10. However I am afraid our hapless guide brings a possible 3 star rating down to only 2. Money down the toilet.
October 3, 2017
Unprompted review